湯治屋
The Japanese art of slowing down
Opening 2027Meeting the makers in Japan this winter.
Letters on Japanese bathing, rest and the makers we're meeting. Fortnightly and free.
Tōji (湯治) is the old Japanese practice of going to the hot springs to recover. Not for an afternoon, but for a stretch of days, doing very little. It is more than a thousand years old, and it rests on an idea Britain has largely mislaid: that recovery is something you repeat, not something you achieve.
Tōji-ya is a curated house for that practice, brought home. We source only in Japan, one maker at a time: bath minerals and herbal baths, the summer cooling rituals that answer them, incense and candles, cloth woven for water, and evening tea. No optimising, no tracking, nothing to be got better at. A bath, a scent, a towel, a cup, and an evening that asks nothing of you.
The practice took two forms: mineral waters from the hot springs, and herbal baths drawn from medicinal plants. We take them as Japan makes them.
Where we can, our soaks carry yunohana, the mineral bloom formed by hot-spring water, gathered or drawn from the place where it rises.
The waters, the herbal bath and the cooling bath, explained: the Japanese bath.
The cooling bath. Japan's answer to a warm evening, for a warming Britain.
The cool at the centre of it is hakka (薄荷), Japanese mint, more refreshing on the skin than the Western kind. Traditionally grown across the length of the country, and now kept alive by a few growers who never let the fields go.
And, in season, the fūrin (風鈴): the summer wind chime, hung where a passing breeze can be heard as well as felt.
Two soaks that are not waters, but belong to the same bath.
Scent and light, best enjoyed during and after the bath.
The quiet half-hour that the bath was for.
Writing from the road: the makers we meet, the towns the waters come from, and the case for doing less.
Every essay at tojiya.substack.com.